Bosch LSU4 Sources

Posted by & filed under Automotive, EFI Tuning, HP Tuners.

Occasionally a WB02 sensor fails, this is a handy chart to replace it. Fully compatible with the Innovate LM1, LM2, and any other wideband controller that uses the LSU4 sensor.

The standard LSU4 wideband sensor can be found as:

Bosch Part Number
Vehicle Part number extra info
0 258 007 033
Volvo 2000 C70, 2.3 L & 2.4 L turbo. Bosch USA #17033
0 258 007 036
Volvo 1999 S80 T6 (Front) Bosch USA #17036, (Info from Alex Neckas).
0 258 007 044
Porsche Carrera 911 GT3 part # 996-606-168-01
0 258 006 047
Volvo 1999 S70 2.4T. Volvo part 91 25 547 (possibly the same as Volvo part 94 54 597 used on first generation S80 2.4T and T5).
0 258 007 053,
0 258 007 054
VW 2000 Beetle 1.8 turbo. , Bosch USA #17053.
0 258 007 057,
0 258 007 058
VW1.8T and 2.8L VR6 Golf, Jetta and Turbo Beetle, VW part # 021-906-262-B, (AWW & AFP motors only) Bosch US part # 17014
0 258 006 065
GM Cadillac Catera. GM part number 919-8809. Saturn part number 24450850. Same part as the 0 258 006 066 below, but different cable length

0 258 006 066
Bosch LSU 4 sensor – sold by Tech Edge – AU$150
0 258 007 085,
0 258 007 086
VW 2.0 L
0 258 007 090
Audi 2001 – 2003 A4 1.8T (Front) and VW 2001 Passat 1.8T (Front) (Info from Alex Neckas).
0 258 007 200
GM used on some Holden Commodore models (VX, VY, etc.). LSU 4.2 sensor sold by Tech Edge. Upgraded 7 057 sensor.
0 281 004 028
BMW part number 13 62 7 793 25. An LSU 4.9 sensor.
0 258 017 020
GM Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky – LSU 4.9 sensor (has connector 1 928 404 687) (Info from Banning Cohen 05 Sep ’06).
0 258 017 025
Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor (has connector 1 928 404 682) sold by Tech Edge –
0 258 017 036
BMW N52 6 cylinder engine. LSU 4.9 sensor. (Info from Cameron Freeman 01 Aug ’06).

Info Provided From wbo2.com/lsu/

Introduction to PID Control

Posted by & filed under Automotive, EFI Tuning.

DTN0003_Introduction_to_PID_Control%5B1%5D

What is PID?
PID stands for Proportional, Integral, and Derivative and is a type of feedback control system. It
compares a measured value (from a sensor, say) against a desired value (the setpoint or aim) and
adjusts outputs to reduce the difference (error) between the two.
The controller (or ECU in our case) uses a constantly updating calculation to control a physical
system. It looks at the current value of the error, the integral of the error over a recent time interval,
and the current derivative of the error signal to determine not only how much of a correction to
apply, but for how long.

A Real World Analogy
Think of a driver with no brakes wishes to stop a car at a set of lights. The driver is using the
accelerator pedal to give the car forward movement to get to the lights. The closer the car gets
the less the driver pushes on the accelerator pedal. The amount of throttle is the Proportional Gain.
The Driver is relying on the car to slow down because of rolling friction between the tires and the
road. If the driver is trying to get to the lights quickly, more throttle will be used.
The problem is that if the driver relies solely on the rolling friction to stop the car, they may roll
straight past the lights and then need to put the car into reverse and head back. This could
happen several times before the car comes to rest at the lights and the faster the driver tries to get
there, (better system response) the worse the over/undershooting problem becomes.
Now consider if the driver also has a braking system. When approaching the lights they can reduce
the amount of throttle to slow the car and also apply the brakes to reduce the speed. The brakes
act as the Derivative component of the system. It is logical to suggest that with the throttle and
brakes the driver can now get to and stop at the lights with greater ease and generally more
quickly, with less over/undershoot.
Now consider the driver has to do this when the lights are on a slight upward sloping hill. The driver
can perform the stopping exercise using the throttle and brakes but the car will start rolling
backwards when it is stopped. The driver now needs to apply a little bit of throttle (assume the
brakes are ONLY for reducing speed and not to stop movement) to hold the car at the stopping
point so it does not roll backwards, this is the Integral component of the system.
It can be seen that if the same driver has a very powerful car, the amount of throttle and brake
needed to get to the set of lights is different to the amount of throttle and brake needed for a less
powerful car. Obviously the high powered car will get the job done quicker but with more energy
needed and therefore more stress on the equipment.

1ZZFE COP Units

Posted by & filed under Automotive, EFI Tuning, Electronic, Toyota.

These were put with the rubber seals more or less in the same plane so you can get an idea of comparative height.

Source vehicles and part numbers from left to right:

90919-02227 ST215 Caldina 3SGTE

90919-02230 GXE10 Altezza AS200/Lexus IS200 1GFE vvt-i

90919-02239 ZZE120 Corolla 1ZZFE

90919-02240 NZE121 Corolla 2NZFE

90919-02236 SXE10 Altezza RS200 3SGE Beams dual vvt-i

If you have a standalone that can do sequential fire theese seem the way to go even over ls1 truck coils.

Sources: www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php…
www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showth…

AEM F/IC Documentation Link

Posted by & filed under AEM F/IC, EFI Tuning.

I’ve been researching the AEM F/IC for a 1JZ single turbo tune I have coming up.

AEM FIC Tuning Tips

Posted by & filed under AEM F/IC, EFI Tuning.

AEM FIC Tuning Tips


There has been a lot of questions about tuning the FIC. I’ve went through a lot with the FIC and this is what I came up with.

Special thanks to JeffTsai, TeckIS300, and the my.is community for this post

So you have a vvti 2jzge? decided to go FIC with it? Double checked your wiring? You are half way there. Make sure you update the latest firmware and use the latest software to give you less headaches.

The FIC tuning tip document supplied by every FIC unit is a must read. It will give you a good insight on how piggyback tuning works.

Use the stock Bank 1 Senor 1 o2 sensor, and hook up the FIC skew to it (don’t forget the resistor). Then wire the B2S1 sensor signal to the B1S1 sensor. You would also want to run a dual-output o2 simulator for the Sensor 2s. Except for B1S1, use a resistor on all the heater circuits (if the circuit is present). Do not splice heater circuits to each other because this will cause a drop in resistance, and trigger CEL.

Calibrating your MAF in its new environment

Before anything, you compensate in the MAF voltage map (not the MAF fuel map). Stock intake pipe diamater is 2.75″, and more than likely you are running a 3″ MAF charge pipe. To compensate for this difference, add 9% to the entire MAF voltage map. I had the worst problems with idling because i neglected this step.

Select All -> Right Click -> Set Value -> Enter “9” -> Press OK

You are done with the first step.

Update: the MAF pipe from stock is about 2.75″, not 2.5″, so 9% would be the sweet spot to get your fuel trim smack on [(3-2.75)/2.75]

MAF Clamp

Next step is MAF voltage clamp. Your MAF tells your ECU how much air is flowing, thus the ECU adds fuel accordingly to your MAF reading. Don’t think your MAF just sits there and does nothing; that is how your ECU tunes its AFR. Our ECU tunes the way how we want our AFR to be already; NA IS/GS300s do hit 11.5:1 on WOT.

There are several points where you can clamp your MAF voltage, but I recommend letting your MAF operate as much as possible. You want the stock system to be in control for as much bandwidth as it can handle. Good place to clamp is 4.7V. No need to hide boost from the stock ECU. As far as it’s concerned, it’s just more air and it will pair fuel with whatever it reads accordingly.

MAP load fuel map

MAP Fuel map lets you:

1. change injector size.
2. create a base fuel map (for those that are clamping MAF from seeing boost)
3. fine-tuning.

My AFR is on target by letting my MAF doing most of the work. I also don’t have to worry about fuel trim related issues because that is all worked out between the MAF and the stock o2 sensor.

O2 Skew

To keep the fuel trim +/- 3%, here’s a very simple rule that has worked out for me so far.

Lets say i need to add 3% on the fuel map because of a lean spot, at the same cell, I would put -3% on the O2 skew map. When you are 3% more on the fuel trim, you want the o2 sensor to see 3% leaner.

Ignition
Can’t really tune this unless you are on a dyno with kick-ass knock sensors hooked up. But if you know you are knocking (and your CR is kinda high), then pull some ignition timing.