Bosch LSU4 Sources

Posted by & filed under Automotive, EFI Tuning, HP Tuners.

Occasionally a WB02 sensor fails, this is a handy chart to replace it. Fully compatible with the Innovate LM1, LM2, and any other wideband controller that uses the LSU4 sensor.

The standard LSU4 wideband sensor can be found as:

Bosch Part Number
Vehicle Part number extra info
0 258 007 033
Volvo 2000 C70, 2.3 L & 2.4 L turbo. Bosch USA #17033
0 258 007 036
Volvo 1999 S80 T6 (Front) Bosch USA #17036, (Info from Alex Neckas).
0 258 007 044
Porsche Carrera 911 GT3 part # 996-606-168-01
0 258 006 047
Volvo 1999 S70 2.4T. Volvo part 91 25 547 (possibly the same as Volvo part 94 54 597 used on first generation S80 2.4T and T5).
0 258 007 053,
0 258 007 054
VW 2000 Beetle 1.8 turbo. , Bosch USA #17053.
0 258 007 057,
0 258 007 058
VW1.8T and 2.8L VR6 Golf, Jetta and Turbo Beetle, VW part # 021-906-262-B, (AWW & AFP motors only) Bosch US part # 17014
0 258 006 065
GM Cadillac Catera. GM part number 919-8809. Saturn part number 24450850. Same part as the 0 258 006 066 below, but different cable length

0 258 006 066
Bosch LSU 4 sensor – sold by Tech Edge – AU$150
0 258 007 085,
0 258 007 086
VW 2.0 L
0 258 007 090
Audi 2001 – 2003 A4 1.8T (Front) and VW 2001 Passat 1.8T (Front) (Info from Alex Neckas).
0 258 007 200
GM used on some Holden Commodore models (VX, VY, etc.). LSU 4.2 sensor sold by Tech Edge. Upgraded 7 057 sensor.
0 281 004 028
BMW part number 13 62 7 793 25. An LSU 4.9 sensor.
0 258 017 020
GM Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky – LSU 4.9 sensor (has connector 1 928 404 687) (Info from Banning Cohen 05 Sep ’06).
0 258 017 025
Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor (has connector 1 928 404 682) sold by Tech Edge –
0 258 017 036
BMW N52 6 cylinder engine. LSU 4.9 sensor. (Info from Cameron Freeman 01 Aug ’06).

Info Provided From wbo2.com/lsu/

Introduction to PID Control

Posted by & filed under Automotive, EFI Tuning.

DTN0003_Introduction_to_PID_Control%5B1%5D

What is PID?
PID stands for Proportional, Integral, and Derivative and is a type of feedback control system. It
compares a measured value (from a sensor, say) against a desired value (the setpoint or aim) and
adjusts outputs to reduce the difference (error) between the two.
The controller (or ECU in our case) uses a constantly updating calculation to control a physical
system. It looks at the current value of the error, the integral of the error over a recent time interval,
and the current derivative of the error signal to determine not only how much of a correction to
apply, but for how long.

A Real World Analogy
Think of a driver with no brakes wishes to stop a car at a set of lights. The driver is using the
accelerator pedal to give the car forward movement to get to the lights. The closer the car gets
the less the driver pushes on the accelerator pedal. The amount of throttle is the Proportional Gain.
The Driver is relying on the car to slow down because of rolling friction between the tires and the
road. If the driver is trying to get to the lights quickly, more throttle will be used.
The problem is that if the driver relies solely on the rolling friction to stop the car, they may roll
straight past the lights and then need to put the car into reverse and head back. This could
happen several times before the car comes to rest at the lights and the faster the driver tries to get
there, (better system response) the worse the over/undershooting problem becomes.
Now consider if the driver also has a braking system. When approaching the lights they can reduce
the amount of throttle to slow the car and also apply the brakes to reduce the speed. The brakes
act as the Derivative component of the system. It is logical to suggest that with the throttle and
brakes the driver can now get to and stop at the lights with greater ease and generally more
quickly, with less over/undershoot.
Now consider the driver has to do this when the lights are on a slight upward sloping hill. The driver
can perform the stopping exercise using the throttle and brakes but the car will start rolling
backwards when it is stopped. The driver now needs to apply a little bit of throttle (assume the
brakes are ONLY for reducing speed and not to stop movement) to hold the car at the stopping
point so it does not roll backwards, this is the Integral component of the system.
It can be seen that if the same driver has a very powerful car, the amount of throttle and brake
needed to get to the set of lights is different to the amount of throttle and brake needed for a less
powerful car. Obviously the high powered car will get the job done quicker but with more energy
needed and therefore more stress on the equipment.

New motor build… motor assembly.

Posted by & filed under 93 Hatch Blog.

IMG_0484
Got the right rod bearings!Q\

IMG_0512
Pistons in the hole! O-ring installed!

IMG_0501
Shannon Gordon making it happen.

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Shiny bits!

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Nice and clean.

IMG_0504
Head on, timing belt installed.

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Express delivery thanks again to Shannon.

New motor build… prepping for bottom end assembly part 1

Posted by & filed under 93 Hatch Blog.

IMG_0384
I got my downpipe, dumptube, manifold, and turbo exhaust housing thermal coated.

IMG_0385
Finished up my wiring harness for the most part.

IMG_0386
Turbo with the thermal coated exhaust housing.

IMG_0389
They powder coated my ECU lid for lulz

IMG_0391
Pulled the wirelocks from my old 81mm pistons in prep for the new ones.

IMG_0432
Got the motor on the engine stand.

IMG_0431
Ready to assemble!

IMG_0469
Argh wait nevermind, they sent the wrong rod bearings. Bah.

New motor build log… collecting parts.

Posted by & filed under 93 Hatch Blog.

Received my rod bearings and pistons today, ready to go!
Received my rod bearings and pistons today, ready to go!

IMG_0267
GSR transmission getting a ITR LSD installed.

IMG_0270
84mm 9.5:1 CP Pistons

IMG_0275
GSR block heading out to GOlden Eagle for sleeving.

IMG_0301
Sandblasted valvecover. Ready for AN fittings and powdercoating.

IMG_0361
I went thru my harness, cleaning it up, removing unused wired and heat shrinking it all.

IMG_0363
Valve cover back from powdercoating, and the 2 -10 AN bungs attached.

IMG_0374
Block is back from GE, 84mm bore.

IMG_0376
My daughter likes it!

Finished up another Supra…

Posted by & filed under Automotive, Toyota.

Pretty cool… the 2JZGTE Twin Turbos has been replaced with a larger ball bearing Single Turbo. A MapECU2 ECU has been installed to tune the vehicle along with the usual BPU upgrades…

Matt's Single Turbo Toyota Supra

1ZZFE COP Units

Posted by & filed under Automotive, EFI Tuning, Electronic, Toyota.

These were put with the rubber seals more or less in the same plane so you can get an idea of comparative height.

Source vehicles and part numbers from left to right:

90919-02227 ST215 Caldina 3SGTE

90919-02230 GXE10 Altezza AS200/Lexus IS200 1GFE vvt-i

90919-02239 ZZE120 Corolla 1ZZFE

90919-02240 NZE121 Corolla 2NZFE

90919-02236 SXE10 Altezza RS200 3SGE Beams dual vvt-i

If you have a standalone that can do sequential fire theese seem the way to go even over ls1 truck coils.

Sources: www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php…
www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showth…

1JZ/2JZ 6 Channel Igniter

Posted by & filed under Automotive, Toyota.

Found some good info in the Toyota 6ch igniter:

The actual 1JZ/2JZ 6-channel igniter, which was also used on the 95 Avalon, it has 2 connectors instead of just 1 like the Camry igniter.

1JZ/2JZ/1MZ 6-channel igniter can be one of the following numbers:

89620-14460
89620-24080
89621-22020
89621-22030

Honda Main Relay Test Procedure

Posted by & filed under Automotive.

1. Remove the main relay.
2. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #4 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 3.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #5 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #2 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #1 terminal and the #3 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 4.
b.If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #3 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
b. If the fuel pump still does not work, go to harness test.
c. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.